Shea is proud to have had the opportunity to help bring Surdyk's Liquor and Wine Shop's personality and wonderful products to travelers at the Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport with Surdyk's Flights Wine Market & Bar.
Below is the Cover Story from Food Service News by Mike Mitchelson describing the journey to the airport and the new concept's offerings.
Surdyk’s ‘Flights’ lands in airport
By Mike Mitchelson
Food Service News
A challenging space and great idea called for creative design, construction and security clearance.What was jammed into the space where Surdyk’s Flights Wine Market & Bar now sits in the Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport was anyone’s guess. “I don’t know,” said Pete Blough, project manager at Grand Restaurant & Design. Blough led the way from the baggage-claim area through a secured door and along a trail that wound through the inner workings of the airport and out on the tarmac before finally re-entering, riding an elevator and re-entering the concourse—the only way into the airport without a boarding pass.
“I don’t know, either,” said Taylor Surdyk, the youthful co-owner and latest generation of Surdyk in the company business (most famously, Surdyk’s Liquor & Cheese Shop in Northeast Minneapolis, since 1934).
I also had no recollection. But this new Surdyk’s incarnation promises to leave an impression. The narrow-but-deep, 1,000-square-foot space requires one to really step from the concourse. A lengthy horseshoe-shaped bar runs nearly the length of the space, seats on either side are given privacy by the display case at the front. In the middle of the bar is the prep area, where, atop drawer coolers and streamlined storage space, sits a hand-cranked meat slicer, counter space (including a marble-slab frost top) is packed with cheeses and fresh bread, meats and other delectables. The kitchen team prepares fresh sandwiches, salads and cheese plates for discriminating airline passengers. Wine racks filled with 180 SKUs line the walls—yes, you can buy bottles of wine to travel with on the plane. “We sold our first bottle of Opus 1 (a very upscale brand) last night,” Taylor said, excitedly.
It’s a great-looking spot; like the Ike’s Food & Cocktails further down the concourse, its design is very non-airport. Shea, Inc. designed the Surdyk’s space, logo and menu. A full-size replica of the original Surdyk’s Liquor sign (circa 1934) anchors the left side of the storefront, and reclaimed booths, wood flooring, ceramic tile, fixtures and muted lighting give the space a historical-yet-contemporary feel. “We’re very concerned about energy conservation, and sustainability isn’t just a word you say these days—it’s something we put into all of our projects,” said David Shea, founder of Shea, Inc., regarding the re-use of materials and efficiency-conscious design. Surdyk’s has been around for 75 years, thus nostalgia had to be incorporated into the design, “but it also has to be clean, modern, fresh. All the lighting in the space is energy sensitive, LED lights, trying to use those so the place when you go in is bright enough but also subtle enough so it isn’t overpowering. I think that’s important for us.”
Details include space beneath the booths to stow rolling carry-on luggage, and outlets strategically placed within the restaurant and the patio area (patio? In an airport? Read on…) to allow customers to use their laptops or other electronic devices while they wait for their flight. “People are, unfortunately, spending a little bit more time at the airport these days,” Shea said, adding that airport restaurants like Surdyk’s, where a good glass of wine and light meal can be had, are becoming more common. “We’re seeing that all over—the trend really started in Europe, and now it’s coming into our airports.”
Shea also noted that Surdyk’s Flights might be the first restaurant to offer on-sale and off-sale liquor. State regulations require separate stores and entrances (think grocery stores with adjacent liquor stores), but the Metropolitan Airports Commission operates much like it’s own governing body, and allowed the combination.
Independent offerings
Beyond the wine in the racks and being served, there’s also full-bar offerings, including house-made infused vodkas (bacon and jalapeño). “We wanted to represent Surdyk’s with a quality rail offering,” Taylor said. He came up with a signature cocktail list with aeronautical themes, such as the “Puddle Jumper,” “MSP Overshot” and the “Concealed Weapon.” Regarding the latter, Taylor said “No one with the airport looked at the (drink) menu yet. We’ll see how long that it lasts.”
And then there’s the 260 square-foot, full-service “patio” area. And it’s not on the tarmac. It’s located in the middle of the concourse in front of the store. “With the small space, we needed (more) seating area,” Taylor said. “It’s great exposure.”
So, how does Surdyk’s, with its first venture into a wine bar/restaurant, arrive in the airport and call its own shots, stocking the wine and food they want and get a patio? HMS Host, a foodservice management company that has a grip on every major airport in the country, operates every concept in the MSP airport—including local brands from full-service concepts like Ike’s to grab-and-go’s like D’Amico & Sons. But the Surdyks weren’t interested in losing control of their brand. To come in, they wanted to truly be independent operators.
They might have had the slight upper hand from the start to accomplish this feat. “The MAC came to us,” Taylor said. Another tenant, a national wine bar concept, was slated for the space, but the deal fell through.
The MAC has featured local concepts of late, and Surdyk’s, with its history, wine expertise and world-class cheese shop was a solid choice. The Surdyks received advice from Chip Isaacson, the owner of Ike’s who made the leap to the airport in 2007. “We wanted to make sure we had more control over quality,” Taylor said. That control includes their own bagels, made at their commissary kitchen in Minneapolis. Control over their product doesn’t mean less hassle getting it into the store, however. They have to clear the same logistical hurdles with receiving, inspection and delivery all other businesses at the airport do—there’s no running out to the store when something runs out.
Bradford Airport Logistics handles everything coming into the airport: receiving, inspecting and delivery. This fact made things interesting during construction, said Mark Cox, Grand’s, contract design sales manager, who also worked on the space. But the number one challenge was dealing with security. “You’re not strolling in there any old time.”
Also challenging was fitting all that equipment into such a tight space. There was no hood system to install, but there were tightly-fitted drawer refrigeration compartments, bar back equipment and soda systems, most of which within six feet of space. The installation was basically completed in one night, Cox said, laughing. “From 11 p.m. to 8 a.m. on a Friday morning. I was beat. And I had to be at the office that day.”
Coordination between Bradford and the general contractor, Morcon, which does much of the construction at the airport, was a new experience. But now that Grand has worked with Morcon, hopefully more airport business can come from it, Cox said.
It all works to give the airport a truly independent concept, and as the systems get more routine, Taylor said they plan to add more cheeses and wine tasting flights with food (they currently only offer them with cheese). “Everyone coming here has good things to say,” Taylor said, adding that in the first week they were open they had a celebrity—actor Michael Keaton—stop in, and, as proof they’ve struck on something good, had one customer miss their flight.
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